Frosted Periwinkle Dahlia Bulbs

The coolest dahlia in the collection. Powder blue at the edges washing back through pink toward the center, with a fine gold shimmer along the petal margins that only shows in raking light. Photographed against a stone facade — the setting is deliberate, because this is a dahlia that looks best with something pale and architectural behind it.

What you get

• Graded tubers with a visible eye, packed in peat.
• Blooms 4–5 in, fully double, with softly pointed petals.
• Plants 28–34 in tall — compact for a blue-flowered dahlia.

Pastel borders

Pastels collapse into mush without something dark to separate them. Pair this with burgundy foliage, deep purple or plain green — anything with weight — and the blue reads as blue rather than as washed-out lavender.

Planting

• Wait for warm soil. Plant two weeks after your last frost date, once the soil holds 60°F / 15°C at 4 in deep. Cold soil rots tubers before they wake.
• Set them 4–6 in deep, eye facing up, with 2–3 in of soil over the crown. Space 15–18 in apart so air moves between plants.
• Water once at planting, then hold off until shoots break the surface — a soaking wet tuber with no roots has nowhere to put the water.
• Full sun, 6+ hours. Stake at planting if you want straight stems; adding supports later breaks roots.

Season & hardiness

• Blooms 8–10 weeks after planting and keeps going until the first hard frost.
• Hardy in USDA zones 8–11. In zones 3–7 lift the tubers after frost blackens the foliage, or grow as an annual.
• Pinch the center shoot at about 12 in to double the stem count; more stems, smaller blooms.
• Deadhead spent flowers every few days. Left to seed, the plant stops producing new buds.